Bathroom vanity installation, done right.

Most people buy the vanity first and then discover the top doesn't fit the faucet, the mirror doesn't fit the wall, and the light is on the wrong side. I install it as a package so the pieces are picked to fit each other and the room.

• The old vanity, top and faucet out, the wall behind it patched and painted
• The new vanity set level and shimmed, screwed to the studs, scribed to a wall that isn't straight
• The top, the sink and the faucet, with new supply lines, a new P-trap and a drain that doesn't drip
• The mirror or medicine cabinet, centered on the sink, hung at a height that works for you
• The light fixture swapped on the existing box by the licensed electrician
• Caulk at the wall and the backsplash, the drawers adjusted, the floor cleaned

Here's how I sort them on the first visit, because it decides whether you're getting a written quote for a vanity or a $14,000 to $28,000 remodel.

• A swap: the new vanity covers the old footprint, the drain and supplies stay where they are, and the light stays on its box
• Still a swap: a wider vanity, as long as it clears the toilet and the door swing and the plumbing still lands inside the cabinet
• A floating vanity on existing lines: the drain is dropped lower in the wall by the licensed plumber, and blocking goes in behind the drywall for the brackets
• Also a remodel: a smaller vanity that exposes floor tile that was never there, a wall that needs tile, or a move to a new wall, which adds $2,500 to $6,000 to a remodel

• Floating: hangs on brackets into blocking, shows floor underneath, makes a small bath feel bigger. Needs the drain lower and solid wood in the wall
• Freestanding: sits on the floor, hides the plumbing, the simplest install and the easiest to swap again later
• Furniture-style: a converted dresser or an open-shelf stand. The sink cutout and the drain route are planned before it's bought
• Widths run 24, 30, 36, 48, 60 and 72 inches; height is about 32 for a standard and 34 to 36 for a comfort height, which most adults prefer

Get a free estimateor call or text (954) 242-5924

The holes in the top have to match the faucet, the sink has to match the top, and the top has to match the cabinet. I check all three before anything is ordered.

• Quartz tops: the most common pick, no sealing, in a slab or a prefab size
• Cultured marble and porcelain integrated tops: sink and top in one piece, fewer seams to clean
• Undermount sinks need a solid top; vessel sinks need a taller faucet and a shorter cabinet
• Faucet spacing: single hole, 4-inch centerset or 8-inch widespread. The top is drilled to the faucet, not the other way around
• A drain assembly that matches the faucet finish, because the chrome one in the box rarely does

I hang the mirror centered on the sink, not the cabinet, and the licensed electrician I bring in swaps the light on the box that's there.

• A mirror a few inches narrower than the vanity, bottom edge just above the backsplash
• A recessed medicine cabinet where the studs allow; a surface-mount where they don't
• A new bar or pendant on the existing box is part of the package
• Sconces on each side of the mirror need new boxes and wire, which is the licensed electrician's part; I schedule it
• Any outlet on the vanity wall gets checked for GFCI protection while we're there

If a drawer sticks, a drain weeps or the caulk lets go in year one, I come back. Vanity jobs are how a lot of my long-term clients first met me, and most of them stack a few other items onto the visit: a toilet, a fan, a towel bar into blocking.